-Sewing is hard. False! Sewing just takes practice and patience. Sewing something complicated, like a full Elizabethan court gown, right out the gate is probably going to be an overwhelming task. But making an apron, a coif, or even a simple tunic is great practice and can be very relaxing once you get the hang of it.
-Sewing stitches have to be tiny and perfect. False! Stitches need to be relatively even, that’s true. And as you improve, you may find your stitches getting smaller. But there’s such a thing as over sewing! Seam stitches can be about 1/8” long, and hem stitches can be ¼”. And you don’t need to stress about each stitch being exactly the same. Stay in a straight line, and keep your tension even. Use chalk to mark a line out if you need to.
-Machine stitching is stronger than hand sewing. False! A backstitch by hand is just as strong, if not stronger, than a machine stitch. Sewing by machine is faster, that’s true, but sewing by hand is more versatile, more portable, and can be just as professional looking.
Sewing Terms to Know
Seam: The line of stitches that joins two pieces of fabric together.
Seam Allowance: This is the bit of fabric on the edge of the seam that traditionally gets turned tot eh inside. These raw edges will fray unless they’re finished or encased in some way. On average, leaving a bigger seam allowance (up to 1”) allows you more options for finishing, and also gives you room to let out a garment, if it’s too tight. A good rule of thumb is to have at least ½” of seam allowance.
Hem: The finishing of open edges of a sewn piece, like cuffs, necklines, the bottom edge, or the edges of flaps, as in bags. Hemming these edges finishes them, to keep them from fraying. There are many options for hems!
Hem allowance: The piece of fabric that gets folded up to make a hem. This can be as small as 1/8-1/4", or as much as 5-6”, depending on what kind of hem you’re making. It can also be 0”, if you’re leaving the edge raw, or using embroidery or other flat stitching to finish it.
Selvage: The factory finished edge of fabric. These edges won’t usually fray as badly as cut edges (if at all) but they may shrink differently, and they usually have a different appearance than the rest of the fabric.
Needles:
Sharps – This is a small, sharply pointed sewing needle with a short, round eye. Finer needles are better for sewing thinner fabrics, and heavier needles are good for sewing thicker fabrics.
Ballpoint – These needles have a rounded point, and are meant for sewing stretchy
(knit) fabric.
Embroidery – These small, sharp needles have a much longer, skinny eye. You can sew with them, and you may find them easier to thread.
Needle Threader: This is a little device that looks like a foil coin with a wire diamond shape on one end. Stick the wire diamond through the eye of your needle, put the end of the thread through it, and then pull it back through the eye. Presto! Your needle is threaded! You can buy these alone, or they come with most sewing kits.
Fabric: Everybody knows what fabric is. But the best fabrics for portraying the medieval period are linen, silk, and wool. These fabrics are known to have existed in period. Cotton existed in some places, especially toward the later period, but it’s not as common. All of these are breathable fabrics that are relatively fire safe. They may burn, but they won’t melt! They can be expensive to practice with, though. Cotton muslin is a good practice fabric. Corduroy is, too. Shiny, slippery satins, brocades, and thin chiffon are going to be much harder to work with.
Thread: Poly/cotton (all purpose) thread, cotton thread, and linen thread are all good to sew with. You may want to wax linen thread to make it a bit easier to use. Silk thread can be used on a very fine project, but don’t think you must use it. Silk can also be waxed. Do not use machine embroidery thread to sew with.
Straight stitch:
Back stitch:
Whip Stitch is a spiral, as though you were sewing the stripe around a barber pole.
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