Contrast Facings (for a Neckline)

Contrast facings--a different colored piece of fabric at the neckline, sometimes other locations--are really popular in the SCA and can be documented to a couple of different periods. I don't know exactly how they were attached in the Middle Ages, but I know a modern method and that's what I'm going to share. The really nice part about a facing is that it does two things: it provides a decorative aspect to your clothing, but it also finishes the raw edge of your neckline! I highly suspect that at least some of the facings in the Middle Ages were attached in a similar manner to what I'm going to show, just without the sewing machine.  But let's get started!

I really like to start with a neckline pattern, because you want the facing to match the neck hole cut into your garment exactly. However, I couldn't find my V-neck pattern, so I used my round neck pattern and modified it on the garment. I traced my regular round neck pattern, and then used a straight edge to make a V. If I had never done a V neck before, I really would have taken the time to check this out on a scrap first, to make sure my V wasn't too deep, and was laying right. But I've done this before, recently, and I wasn't too worried about it. I cut that out and joined my shoulder seams. But I didn't do any other sewing to the dress, yet.

Once my neckline was set on my dress, I laid it flat over my facing fabric, and traced it onto the facing fabric. (Again, if this was my first time, I'd have made a pattern and a mock-up.)  I traced the pattern, and then used a seam gauge to measure off my facing distance, plus seam allowances, to get my facing piece. I used a straight edge to finish the point of the V. Also, be better than me. Iron your fabric. I ironed, but after I did this step.

Here's where we get really "modern" with what we're doing. I am almost positive this isn't a period technique, but it's a great way to get a nice facing. Stitch a line of straight stitches around the outside edge, along the line of your hem allowance. Mine's at 1/2". For what it's worth, if I wanted to take an educated guess at doing this in a period way, I'd use a substantially smaller hem allowance, and do all of this by hand. But because I like being exact, I'd still probably baste in this line.

Next, line up your facing with your neckline, on the inside/wrong side of the garment. You still ideally have the bare minimum of your tunic sewn, so you can lay everything flat. Pin the pieces together, and stitch at the neck.

Once the pieces are stitched together, you want to make several cuts. First, if you have a V neck like I do, snip straight down the center of your V, just to your stitching line. Don't cut your stitches. Stop 1-2 mm away. Then you want to cut notches out of all your curved edges. About 1-1.5" apart from each other. You also want to take little notches out of your outside curves. You don't have to get nearly as close to that basting line of stitches on the outer edge.

Flip your facing to the right side of the tunic. Use your fingers to smooth out the seam and make everything lay flat. Those notches you cut will help it all lay flat. I use pins as I go to hold everything down flat. The below picture shows that step completed.

You can also see the next step in the above photo. You also want to cut off the tip of the V. This would also be true for the outside corners of a square. Turn under your raw edge, using that line of basting stitches as a guide. For the record, that stitching line is completely optional, but it can really help this step!

Here you can see everything laid flat and pinned. All that's left is to stitch down that outer edge! I like to use a tiny hand-sewn whip stitch. It really disappears and makes for a clean finish.  And then you're done! Just finish the rest of the garment.

You can use facings for literally any shape of neckline. They're great for finishing sharp points and corners! You can also vary the outside shape. I have a V-neck in this garment, but I could have made the outer edge of my facing square! Or a fancy oakleaf shape. Be creative and look at medieval manuscripts for inspiration. You might be surprised at how often facings show up!