Thursday, August 9, 2018

Two Threads, No Knots!

I learned this method from someone who does cross-stitch, where using two strands of thread is more common. Except for the finest veils and thinnest silks and linens, I use this method when I'm hand-sewing. Using two strands of thread isn't a bad thing, and omitting classic knots is worth it to me. I dislike knots. So I'm not saying that this is the best method, I'm not saying it's what anyone else should do. But it's what I do, and it's why, when I'm hand-sewing something, you'll see a double strand on my needle.

Step one: Cut a length of thread approximately twice as long as you want. On average, when hand sewing a long seam, your thread should be ~20" long at a time, more or less. That's so that you're reducing the movements of your arms (to pull the thread through), which is more efficient and kinder to your shoulders.

Step 2: Fold the thread in half, so the two ends touch and there's a loop at the other end, in the middle of the thread.

Step 3: Insert your needle into the loop and pull it taut. This just helps make it a small point.

Step 4: Use your fingers to keep the loop pinched down to a point, and then thread the loop through the eye of the needle. I find this occasionally easier to do than to thread an end, and I can do it with even tiny needles with itty bitty eyes.

Step 5: Take a small stitch in your fabric. Pull just until the last inch or so of the loop is visible. Pass the needle through the loop so that the thread catches it, and it can't pull all the way through. (I'm whip stitching a hem in the example photo.)

Step 6: Sew! You just started your thread with no knot!

Step 7: When you get to the end of your thread or stitching line, take another small stitch, in place. Don't pull this stitch tight. Instead, pass the needle through the loop of thread that you've made twice.

Step 8: Pull the stitch tight. You might want to repeat these two steps one more time. It's your call. If I can bury my thread end (I'll explain in the next step) I don't usually do this more than once. If I'm stitching a seam, I'll use this locking stitch twice.

Step 9 (Optional): If you're sewing a hem, facing, or finishing a seam, odds are you have the opportunity to bury your thread end, which is a neat, secure way of finishing off. After doing the lock stitch described in steps 7-8, with your needle still threaded, insert your needle very near your lock stitch. Run the needle between the layers of fabric, and come up 1/2"-1" away. If you don't have layers of fabric, you won't be able to do this.

Step 10: Pull the thread taut, and snip it right next to the fabric. The cut end should ease inside your layers of fabric.

And That's it! Hand sewing with no knots!

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